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#30
by
Sgt. Pate
on 06 Dec, 2009 12:58
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Lots of debate on the dry fire issue... it surely doesn't hurt to use snap caps for insurance.
But dry fire practice is an outstanding way to keep the muscle memory fresh and the trigger finger ready to "press" the trigger and not slap or jerk it.
A person who regularly does dry fire drills will be a much better shooter than one who doesn't and with ammo prices like they are, it's a great way to train when you can't actually shoot.
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#31
by
Bald_freak
on 06 Dec, 2009 14:07
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I miss my babies I used to have:
A Ruger 9mm
Ruger 45
.40 derringer 2 shot
jennings .380
charter arms 38 special
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#32
by
TheSlyKang
on 06 Dec, 2009 20:05
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Ruger 9mm
Bersa .380 for CC
Hammerless Taurus 38 for the wife. Planning to add Crimson Trace Laser Grips to this one.
My next one will be the Taurus 9mm (Mel Gibson Special). This gun is a lot like the Beretta 9mm that I carried in the USAF and with the VA Police.
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#33
by
ozzie
on 06 Dec, 2009 21:30
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Dry firing the HK .40, or any other modern centerfire semi-auto will NOT cause any damage to the weapon, and as Sgt. Pate suggests is an excellent way to practice (assuming you have been taught correct trigger control). It's only rimfire pistols (primarily .22 caliber) that should not be dry fired.
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#34
by
Bald_freak
on 07 Dec, 2009 05:48
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what about revolver's then ozzie?
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#35
by
ozzie
on 07 Dec, 2009 17:28
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what about revolver's then ozzie?
Same deal as the semi-autos, Freak good buddy. You can dry fire revolvers designed for centerfire cartridges as much as you like, just DO NOT dry fire revolvers that shoot .22 or any other rimfire rounds.
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#36
by
Bald_freak
on 08 Dec, 2009 05:51
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I was lookin at old pics with my granddaddy few months back and there was one with him firing an old tompson machine gun. that was bad azz!!! cept I had to listen to a couple hours of war stories after that.
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#37
by
IRONHORSE
on 18 Dec, 2009 10:55
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I was lookin at old pics with my granddaddy few months back and there was one with him firing an old tompson machine gun. that was bad azz!!! cept I had to listen to a couple hours of war stories after that.
The Thompson is an extremely MEAN machine...and it takes a whole lot of man to control it. I want one
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#38
by
Larry
on 26 Dec, 2009 14:29
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I have the Taurus pt99af. It's fun to play with but requires a "Hot bullet" or it will jam and jacketed bullets for a snug fit. The lead bullets are too loose in the barrel. The best I could get at 50 feet was a 2 inch grouping which isn't very good in my opinion. My s&w model 28 has a much tighter group so for accuracy or self defense, I'd prefer the model 28 with Jacketed hollow points. I figure it this way, the s&w has six shots but if I don't hit my target with the first or second shot, I don't deserve to own much less discharge a firearm.
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#39
by
RyanJP
on 16 Jan, 2010 00:31
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Sig 220 is a great tool and IMO the best .45 out of the box for the money, thinking about taking my friends 90's model 220st off him, I've wanted one for a long time, that as well as a Les Baer. Also thinking about picking up a Glock 35 and another 17.
BTW the 220 is perfect for conceal carry, it's a single stack so it's slim like a 1911 ( doesn't have the same low bore axis though ) Good leather I recommend Milt Sparks or Galco, if you wanted Kydex I'd go with Comp-tac or bladetech.
Get that dry firing in and practice all the manipulations/ttp.
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#40
by
IRONHORSE
on 27 Jan, 2010 09:05
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I CC my 220 during cold weather, using a Crossbreed Supertuck - I find it prints a bit too much for wearing under lightweight clothing, so switch off to my STAR PD, for warm weather CC.
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#41
by
flattop peterbilt
on 27 Jan, 2010 19:20
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well i do know the Kimber makes a alloy fram for the .45.. i am getting a para GI .45 and it is about 600.00
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#42
by
Nonick
on 27 Jan, 2010 19:34
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Oops, got to go; I hear the voices telling me to go clean the guns; all of them...!
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#43
by
RyanJP
on 27 Jan, 2010 19:44
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I wouldn't get a Kimber or the Para. The reasons being is I'm not a fan of any of the "me too" 1911's that are mass produced, if you are looking for a range gun I guess they're good to go but for a carry gun that I would have to depend on one no thank you, first off Kimber and Para use MIM which is casting metal that is like the pot metal you find on bike pedal arms and so forth...its cheap. I shot my friends brand new Para and as soon as I put in another mag and put the gun back into battery it had a light hammer strike so I did a tap rack bang, no go so I pressed checked the gun and saw that the extractor was already gone as well as the hammer not returning full, real good craftsmanship there. When Kimber first started back in Klakasmas Ore they where a small semi custom shop that made really good 1911's and there where actual smiths that worked on the guns and made sure all the parts worked properly, now Kimber is just a slop shop, cheap parts like the Hammers are Mim and the mainspring housing's are plastic. I've been around the block with 1911's and I have had the luxury of meeting and working with the best 1911 gunsmith today ( he is the uncle of Armand Swenson ) Save your money and get a Les Baer, there true custom 1911's hand fitted and Les uses carbon steel and the best barrels and hammers, best 1911 for the Money and if you dont have the cash I would get a Colt over anything else and run Wilson 47d mags.
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#44
by
ozzie
on 27 Jan, 2010 19:53
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^^^^^^ much truth ShadowSide does speak ^^^^^^