SAFETY Razor Shave of the Day (SOTD) - page 128 -

• #1905 by 120inna55 on 23 Jun, 2017 05:12
• L&L Grooming - Bon Vivant
  Ever-Ready 100T | Elite Razor Manchurian
  Ever-Ready 1912 | Delta Echo | Gem PTFE (1)
  Chatillon Lux - Bon Vivant EdT
  
  
• #1906 by 120inna55 on 24 Jun, 2017 17:09
• Tallow + Steel "Morocco"
  DrivenLegend Red & Black | APShaveCo Tuxedo 30mm
  Ever-Ready 1912 | Delta Echo | Gem PTFE (1)
  
  

  
  Tallow + Steel's "Morocco" soap imparts an extremely smoky fragrance courtesy of the abundance of cade.  I happen to be a fan of smoky fragrances, particularly those of the cade variety.  For those that don't know, cade can ride the line between resinous and caustic.  Morocco does just that.  I did detect some cedar, but that's about it.  The only soap I have that's smokier is Stirling's "Texas on Fire".  Some may compare this with Barrister and Mann's "Roam", but only in the likelihood of the stigma accompanying it.  Every soap maker should have their Roam.  Everyone needs to have that one product that compels some users to erect shrines while other's call for the artisan's head…that one product who's name is invoked by random hacks without provocation and years after its discontinuance.  Frankly, "Roam" is much more artfully done than "Morocco" at least from the soap's fragrance.  However, the splash is a different story.  The cade does make an everlasting presence, but it leaves room for the depth provided by the cedar and other nondescript woody notes.  A brief effervescence is noted that's closer to crushed pine needles than it is to the turpentine note of cade.  The drydown remains smoky, but much more approachable. The cedar becomes more prominent and singular before fading after about 4 hours.  Despite the documented notes, I never once detected rose, Moroccan or otherwise.
  
  As to performance, I stand by my previous impressions, and I feel Tallow + Steel's new base can stand up against just about all of my favorite artisans' soaps. The exception possibly being Barrister's Reserve, but I need to use both of these bases more before I can say that definitively.  The race is close, regardless.
• #1907 by 120inna55 on 27 Jun, 2017 05:47
• Tallow + Steel "Maya"
  Wolf Whiskers | Raptor | Black Wolf
  Ever-Ready SE | Gem PTFE (1)
  

  
  Since I've commented extensively as to how pleased I am with Tallow + Steel's new soap formula, I'll just briefly convey my thoughts on Maya's fragrance.
  
  Cocoa and coffee arrive at the same time, but they fall short of dominating the fragrance which is soon mitigated by the rich, spicy notes presumably offered up by the allspice.  These intermingle with the cocoa and coffee on an almost sinister scale.  By themselves, these notes wouldn't typically be described as dark, but the accord is indeed dark but clean and crisp. There is zero cooling effect, but it smells like there should be.  A gentle minty metallic fragrance is detected.  I was initially inclined to call it anise, but it doesn't quite make that leap.  The sharp lime along with a bitter citrus keep the fragrance from being sweet.  As the shave progresses, the coffee becomes more discrete giving way to cocoa. I do note a hint of tobacco, but it's quite subtle and intermittent.
  
  The splash starts like most Tallow + Steel splashes with a transient creaminess that I assume is from the base ingredients.  With the exception of the still light tobacco, the other notes of coffee, cocoa, and cardamom are more clearly defined with equal showing from whatever the effervescent fragrance is.  The drydown reveals even more of the lime and bitter orange.  This fragrance seems to last longer than the other new Tallow + Steel splashes I've used thus far (Himalaya and Morocco), still detectable 6 hours out.
  
  For me, Maya pretty much fills the void left by Dark's departure. While it's hardly the same fragrance, it fits in that category.
• #1908 by 120inna55 on 28 Jun, 2017 20:45
• Jeeves of Hudson Street - Black Tea
  Island Bladeworks "Stoya" | Elite Razor Manchurian
  Ever-Ready SE | Gem PTFE (1)
  
  
• #1909 by 120inna55 on 29 Jun, 2017 19:43
• Barrister's Reserve - Spice
  DrivenLegend Red & Black | APShaveCo Tuxedo 30mm
  Ever-Ready 1912 | Delta Echo | Gem PTFE (1)
  
  
• #1910 by 120inna55 on 01 Jul, 2017 20:16
• Storybook Soapworks - Hook
  Ever-Ready 100T | Elite Razor Manchurian
  Ever-Ready 1912 | Delta Echo | Gem PTFE (1)
  
  

  
  I'd assumed a soap called "Hook" was just going to be yet another Bay Rum interpretation.  A closer look revealed scent notes of "leather, rum, gunpowder, and ocean spray" and thus my interest was piqued.  Combine this with the opportunity to try out yet another new artisan, and the hook was set.
  
  In my experience when leather is used in a fragrance, it runs the risk of dominating it.  I don't have a problem with that as long as it doesn't overwhelm it.  In my den are three soaps that the leather-forward fragrance is masterfully done:  The Club's "El Gaucho", Wholly Kaw's "Cuero Oscuro", and L&L Grooming's "Cuir et Épices".  Storybook Soapworks' "Hook" is now in their company.
  
  I started to lather Hook with a barely damp knot, and I quickly discovered that would not do as it threatened to pick up clumps.  A little dip of the knot and the loading came easily as did the unlocking of the heavenly leather aroma.  As I face-lathered, the soft leather was soon accompanied by a damp woody note and ultimately a brass/nickel suggestion.  It reminded my of damp leather with brads and hard wood rifle stock rubbing and warming against it.  Reflecting on it, the metallic note was probably the gunpowder.  It's well established that I'm fairly noseblind to gunpowder due to my constant exposure to the real thing.  While I enjoy this surprisingly unique fragrance, the lather gets more dense and paintable.  The slickness was unbelievable, and that perhaps was to my detriment.  I ended up taking some risky swipes and received a small bite in the mastoid process region for my trouble.  Head shaving is largely done blindly so I had that coming and don't hold the soap responsible.  Otherwise, the shave was a remarkable one.  Storybook also excels in the residual slickness category allowing for clean-passes to be done with a damp palm prep.
  
  The matching alcohol-free aftershave splash is milky and seems to be quite moisturizing, but my skin already felt phenomenal prior to applying it.  There was zero tackiness following the splash application, and my scalp/face was dry when I applied it.  Initially, the splash's fragrance was ever-so-slightly sharper than the soap, but it quickly settled down to that same beautiful leathery goodness.  After about 30 minutes, I began to detect a thicker mellow fragrance that may have actually been ozone followed by a spiciness that was not experienced with the soap.  I've about decided said spiciness is from the sandalwood.  It was subtle, for certain, but it helped ground the scent.  About 5 hours later, this fragrance is still going fairly strong and maintaining its complexity of a leathery, woody, mellow accord.
  
  I know next to nothing about Storybook Soapworks, but this is a heck of a showing in a very crowded market.  As long as they maintain this pace, I expect they'll be around for a while.
• #1911 by 120inna55 on 04 Jul, 2017 06:53
• Dapper Dragon Soaps - Festival 2015 Summer LE
  Rubberset 200-4 | Omega Boar
  Ever-Ready SE | Gem PTFE (1)
  
  
• #1912 by 120inna55 on 06 Jul, 2017 06:05
• 
  
  Tallow + Steel "Boreal"
  Island Bladeworks "Bullwinkle" | TGN Finest
  Star 1912 | Gem PTFE (1)

  
  I've been working through the five new soaps from Tallow + Steel, and Boreal ended up being number four.  Since, I've previously commented on my impressions of this base, I'll just stipulate that the performance is easily in my top five, four of which are tied.  There's simply not a mark against it: the lather comes easily, superb slickness, residual slickness, and post-shave.
  
  Like many soaps, this one is not what you think it's going to be based off the dry puck impressions.  Lathering immediately releases a bold crisp, cool, green, fragrance followed by a faintly sharp cedar wood.  Throughout the shave, it takes on an earthiness that's not dirty which is well balanced against the spruce/fir notes, and the minty notes give the impression of breathing in cool air.  The most impressive aspect of these notes is that they are at levels that are natural and complementary.
  
  The splash is initially aggressively minty, but the highs burn off quickly and leave a soft plant-like musk.  Over the span of about an hour, the mint gradually fades allowing more fir and cedarwood to come to the forefront but the hand-off is subtle.  The splash fragrance is probably about 3-4 hours, but it's difficult to really establish due to the nature of the fragrance.  Boreal smells less like a worn fragrance and more like a real place. It transports you to chilly evergreen forest in which a light frost has just begun to dissolve the oils on the tips of the leaves and soft earth underfoot emanates the fragrance of years of crushed tree litter and undergrowth.
  
  Addendum:  Unlike some of the other new offerings from Tallow + Steel, Boreal is not particularly mysterious, but the musky plant mint fragrance was bothering me because it was so familiar.  I therefore revisited the documented scent notes and one was unfamiliar--- Monarda.  It turns out Monarda is the genus of a plant with which I'm quite familiar, but that's not the word we have for it in Texas.  Here, this is a weed that's prevalent in open sun-baked fields and it attracts lots of bees.  We call it horsemint.  When you mow a pasture rife with these weeds, the result is a minty musk explosion, and to a much more controlled degree, it's the peculiar note in Boreal.
  
  

  
• #1913 by 120inna55 on 07 Jul, 2017 06:16
• Bufflehead - Tishomingo
  Ever-Ready 100T | Elite Razor Manchurian
  Star 1912 | Gem PTFE (1)
  Chatillon Lux - TSM Fougère
  Chatillon Lux - Sylva
  
  
• #1914 by 120inna55 on 08 Jul, 2017 19:58
• Tallow + Steel "West Indies"
  Island Bladeworks "Stoya" | Elite Razor Manchurian
  Ever-Ready SE | Gem PTFE (1)
  
  

  
  As you know, I've been working my way through Tallow + Steel's sophomore offerings.  I saved "West Indies" for last because, based on the scent notes, I'd already decided it would probably be my least favorite of the five.  One reason is the likelihood that it would be another Bay Rum.  Many Bay Rum interpretations actually repulse me, so I'm hesitant to try new ones.  The other reason is the coconut.  I just couldn't see how a coconut fragrance would work as something wearable.  The thought of it immediately reminded me of a sickly sweet Bath and Bodyworks hand soap.  So, now that "West Indies" is starting off well behind, I lathered up.
  
  First off was a convincing fresh bay aroma that got warmer and greener in a short time and remained dominant throughout the shave.  A mellow, creamy note subtly moved in, followed by the spice.  To me, the spice was non-specific.  I could almost declare it to be cinnamon, or to a lesser degree clove, but the overall accord may have been suggesting it just by my association with bay.  It could have been allspice, but I find allspice transforms so much depending on its associates that I don't think I could pick it out regardless. Towards the end of the shave, the accord acquired a creamy woodiness with only a hint of orange that was on the bitter end of the spectrum.  Not once did I really notice anything that smelled like coconut.  Perhaps coconut oil smells different from the fruit (technically a drupe), or maybe it was the creaminess I was detecting.  At either rate, I was actually relieved to not have smelled what I was anticipating.
  
  The splash was also bay-forward, but the sharp orange made more of a showing, and it got sharper and spicier during the drydown.  After about 30 minutes, the orange became less specific and more of a general citrus.  Soon afterward, the bay was replaced by a lovely, slightly smoky and woody vetiver.  Four hours later, the citrus is still detectable and vetiver waxes and wanes.
  
  I really enjoyed "West Indies" despite my foregone bias.  This is clearly not a Bay Rum, nor is it advertised as such.  That said, there are elements that will attract bay rum fans while still being an enjoyable fragrance for those who do not.  This is quite simply a warm island citrus fragrance that's rooted in bay.
  
  Tallow + Steel made a daunting decision to revamp their soap base and fragrance offerings as a sophomore wet shaving software company.  They adhered to a business model in which they almost exclusively use organic ingredients and always use essential oils.  That in and of itself doesn't bring me in as a customer, but I do admire the conviction.  Additionally, their current theme involving fragrance profiles and essential oils to specific regions adds to the self-imposed restrictions, but I must say it's worked out well thus far.  This has been a fun journey working through their new offerings, and I find it difficult to pick out a single one that outshines the group.  They are all quite enjoyable and will have a place in my expansive rotation.  Despite the subjective nature of the fragrances, the real story here is the performance.  Initially, I was skeptical about the wisdom of overhauling their base because it was already a fine product.  However, after working through the full spread, I'm convinced it was the right decision. This is a soap that can honestly hold its own against any of the current competition.
• #1915 by 120inna55 on 10 Jul, 2017 21:35
• Oleo Soapworks - "Pucker"
  Island Bladeworks "Stoya" | Elite Razor Manchurian
  Ever-Ready SE | Gem PTFE (1)
  Chatillon Lux - "Colbeck"
  
  

  
  This was my first time using Oleo Soapworks.  I chose "Pucker" because it utilizes what appears to be their premium tallow base codenamed "Cellini Lusso".  I've just learned that this is the artisan's freshman outing, and it doesn't seem like it.  A usable lather came quickly with a moderately damp knot and proceeded to yield a dense creamy foundation.  Glide was excellent, and there was excellent residual slickness when the visible lather was completely gone.  However, the slickness had a relatively short time limit on it, and once it was gone, there's no reconstituting it.  It resulted in a very comfortable pass, regardless. For the second pass, I had to reload the knot because what was there previously had regressed quite a bit.  Again, a very nice quality, paintable lather was easily obtained, and BBS was achieved in just over two passes.  I suspect the short-lived lather was susceptible to my hard water.  There was zero irritation, and the post shave was excellent.  My skin really likes jojoba oil, and this soap utilizes it well.
  
  There were no surprises from the as-advertised citrus fragrance.  That's not to say it was contrived, mind you.  Amateur lemony fragrances often run the risk of smelling like overly sweet cleaning products, but Pucker was well done.  It was sharp--approaching bitter---but in a very good way.  The lime came through before the completion of the first pass and maintained that lovely, bold citrus that suggested not only the fleshy fruit, but also the peel.  I was pleased that Pucker took the natural fruit approach as opposed to the candy sweet version.
  
  After the final rinse, the fragrance was still lingering, and the lime note was at the forefront.  This is primarily what made me decide on Chatillon Lux's Colbeck aftershave as the lime was just begging for gin.
  
  Overall, I'm happy with Oleo Soapworks' base, and it's clearly ahead of what I've come to expect from freshman soapmakers.  It will take a few more uses to develop a final verdict, but the outlook is good.  While I don't doubt my hard water plays a role in the somewhat minor shortcomings I experienced, the leading artisans overcome this obstacle.  Oleo should be on your radar.
• #1916 by 120inna55 on 11 Jul, 2017 19:27
• Catie's Bubbles/Carnavis & Richardson "Porch Drinks"
  Ever-Ready 100T | Elite Razor Manchurian
  Star 1912 | Gem PTFE (1)
  Chatillon Lux/Carnavis & Richardson "Les Boissons sur le Porche"
  
  
• #1917 by 120inna55 on 13 Jul, 2017 21:31
• Ariana & Evans - Khalifa
  Wolf Whiskers | Raptor | Black Wolf
  Ever-Ready 1912 | Delta Echo | Gem PTFE (1)
  
  
• #1918 by 120inna55 on 16 Jul, 2017 06:14
• Barrister and Mann - First Snow
  Wolf Whiskers | Raptor | Black Wolf
  Ever-Ready 1912 | Delta Echo | Gem PTFE (1)
  
  
• #1919 by 120inna55 on 17 Jul, 2017 21:19
• Ariana & Evans - Khalifa
  Island Bladeworks "Stoya" | Elite Razor Manchurian
  Ever-Ready SE | Gem PTFE (1)
  
  

  
  This is technically my second use of Khalifa. The first go, I fought the lather a bit.  I was expecting a true cream as Peter had initially described it.  The consistency is a bit more firm than a cream.  "Dipping" the brush tips in the tub didn't pick up any product.  That initial shave wasn't ideal simply because of the frustrating load and not meeting my expectations.  I admit, I'm so absolutely spoiled by top artisans' products excelling on every level that even a small matter like loading expectations can detract from an otherwise good product. I didn't want to paint a negative picture, because once I had the lather straightened out, I had a spectacular shave.  I'd resolved to revisit it, approaching it as a soft croap.  The consistency is like RazoRock's Santa Maria del Fiore or some of Dr. Jon's early soaps.
  
  Treating this product like any other soft croap by gently loading with a damp knot yielded much more predictable results, and henceforth an ideal experience.  In fact, the build was intuitive and provided a dense slick luxurious lather.  Residual slickness was above average and post-shave was spectacular, rivaling my top 5.
  
  Khalifi's fragrance is an unmistakable smoky, resin and crushed green cannabis mitigated by spicy vanilla and agarwood.  It descends into a darker, syrupy accord towards the end of the shave with hints of toffee.
  
  The aftershave comes in a heavy glass pump bottle that delivers an even light mist.  Some may choose to spray it into their hands and apply.  As a head and face shaver, I give it one full direct pump to the top of my head and use my hands to distribute over my head and face.  A single pump delivers an adequate amount.  Other than the delivery method, the feel from the aftershave doesn't stand apart from other alcohol-based splashes.  While the soap's post-shave will probably preclude the actual need for post product for most skin, the fragrance is the real reason to use it.  Thankfully, the aftershave fragrance has the same notes, but is less cannabinoid and more non-descript resin, oud, vanilla, and incense.  However, I did not detect coffee from the spray but it may well be lost amidst the dizzying array of sinfully dark notes.  The drydown sustains the dark, syrupy incense abandoning the hashish after about an hour.  After having used this twice, I note the splash's fragrance duration is fairly brief at about 3-4 hours.  I assume this is by design, thus encouraging me to drop some coin on the Black Afgano extrait that influenced Khalifa.
  
  I'm a sucker for packaging, and the Diamond tier exclusive presentation of Khalifa looks classy even if it is impractical.  The glass urn is just a showpiece that many of us will set aside.  The plastic tub slips down inside and stops about one-third of the way before the slight taper of the interior of the urn stops it, and it easily gets stuck, so I won't even be storing the puck in the urn.  While I’m happy with my purchase, I do look forward to using more of this A&E croap base in a more traditional sized jar.  It should go without saving, Khalifa's fragrance will not be for everyone, but assuming this base is used throughout A&E's line, wet shavers wanting high-level product need only pick their flavor and enjoy.