SAFETY Razor Shave of the Day (SOTD)

[warhawk]

 

That's a nice Spring shave, Mel!

Thanks Matt.  Love your SOTD pic. That BSB brush is stunning.

WARHAWK

[120inna55]

...Love your SOTD pic. That BSB brush is stunning.

WARHAWK

Thanks, Mel.  I'm loving this brush!

The Los Angeles Shaving Soap Company - The Black Rose | BSB-Ti w/HMW Extra Dense
Above The Tie S1 w/Triad Rolling Hex 316 Stainless Handle | Astra Superior Platinum (2) | Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements - Speakeasy Aftershave & Cologne

I've been a fan of LASSC since Myrkviðr, one of my all-time favorite scents.  I was a bit surprised when my first whiff off the dry puck of The Black Rose was quite reminiscent of Myrkviðr.  After performing an impromptu A/B scent comparison (off the puck), Myrkviðr's barley and peat notes were replaced by rose and geranium in The Black Rose.  This is a very elementary assessment, I understand, but it needed to be done.  However, after about 3 swirls with the warm, damp brush, TBR differentiated itself greatly from Myrkviðr.  Rose became the dominant scent, but not in the traditional fashion. It was closer to the green slightly bitter rose hips whose petals are just beginning to peek through.  As I advanced through the passes, the scent unfolded beautifully with grounding notes of cedar and labdanum.  TBR is a very pleasant scent, and I wish LASSC did aftershave splashes, because this scent deserves one.

The third use of the BSB's HMW extra-dense knot seems to have hit its stride.  A 45-second load provided just enough lather for 3 head and face passes.  For those who balk at a 45 second load, 3 head and face passes are probably equivalent to 6 face passes.  The extra-dense HMW knot proved to have plenty of room for it.

While TBR's density is right on par with most other popular artisan soaps, the slickness of TBR really sets is apart.  It was notably improved over my other LASSC soaps, which are already excellent.  I shower shave, so when I rinse between passes, I get a full blast of water all over my head and face.  Despite this, there was plenty of residual slickness that my scalp actually felt like it had been lightly oiled.  That slickness facilitated touch-ups with only the aide of a wet hand.  I don't know if this is a result of the charcoal or the clay.  I suspect it's the clay as I have similar results with Stirling. The durability really shined in the final pass as well.  I intentionally make the final scalp pass a little thin, so I can take long sweeping ATG passes, and TBR maintained its structure despite a near-drowning.

Post-shave was probably a notch above my other LASSC soaps, but not such that I'd want their formulas changed.  After recently using Chiseled Face's Pine Tar, I have to say Pine Tar still wins in the post-shave department (that stuff's just amazing).  B&M's Glissant is in there somewhere as well.  Ultimately, these artisans have reached a point in which it's becoming increasingly difficult to set oneself apart pertaining to quality.  That's where unique, trendy, or elegant scents become the deciding factor with regard to which product I'm going to use on a given day.  I already know the shave quality won't hinge on the soap, but rather the hardware.

I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the obvious intriguing element of TBR, and that is the unusual slate color of the soap that's a result of the activated charcoal. The proto-lather is a steel blue that evolves pastel blue before stepping to a pale grey and almost white lather.  This easily rinsed from the HMW knot with absolutely no staining, so fear knot wet shavers!

I finished with the most elegant and shady "Speakeasy" aftershave splash courtesy of PAA.  It's the only rose scent I have in my aftershave arsenal, and it fit the bill.  However, it's a different kind of rose.  I still wish LASSC would delve into the post-product realm.

[warhawk]

Yesterday's SOTD:  Thursday, March 31, 2016 SOTD

Razor:  Weber DLC

Blade: Voskhod

Soap:  Tabac

Brush:  Simpson P8

Dessert:  Ice cube rub, refrigerated WH, refrigerated FINE Fresh Vetiver




WARHAWK

[warhawk]

Hi Matt:  Enjoyed the thorough review on the LASS soap.  Wow... so many soaps so little time. 
I will have to put that on my list to try.  As always I love your SOTD pics... keep 'em coming.

WARHAWK

[120inna55]

Yesterday's SOTD:  Thursday, March 31, 2016 SOTD

Razor:  Weber DLC

Blade: Voskhod

Soap:  Tabac

Brush:  Simpson P8

Dessert:  Ice cube rub, refrigerated WH, refrigerated FINE Fresh Vetiver




WARHAWK

<sigh> I guess I need to try Tabac.  Am I correct in that it's supposed to be tobacco and tomato leaf?  Just sounds weird.  Nice pic, Mel.

Wow... so many soaps so little time...

Yeah, I think I forgot to post this one which was prior to the TBR.  CF's Pine Tar's slickness and post-shave is a step above most soaps.  If you're in the market for just one more soap, I'd take the Pine Tar over the TBR based on performance (and price, too.)  Here's my review of Pine Tar:

Chiseled Face - Pine Tar

BSB-Ti w/HMW Extra Dense

Above The Tie S1 w/Triad Rolling Hex 316 Stainless Handle

Astra Superior Platinum (1)

Floïd Blue

This is my first experience with any form of pine tar soap, shaving or otherwise.  It's not that I didn't know pine tar was used in legitimate soaps.  I'd heard the claims about it's potential skin healing properties and various other remedies, but like others, I was skeptical given the absence of supporting scientific literature.  Chiseled Face  was up front with preparing the user that there's no fragrance included in their latest offering, Pine Tar Shaving Soap.  That said, I expected a stout, sharp, possibly offensive odor.  Chiseled Face is known to take bold chances (Redneck), but they often turn out to be incredible unique fragrances (Midnight Stag).  As a result, I don't shy away from trying their new stuff.  It turns out, Pine Tar, cut with soap, isn't offensive in the least.  It's not something you'd want as an all day fragrance, but it's not eye-watering road tar harsh.  My first impression was hot new tires, not petroleum-based road tar.  As expected, the fragrance lasted the duration of the shave and dissipated soon thereafter.  I could tell immediately that this one will move to the top of my rotation, not for the fragrance, but rather the performance.  I didn't read anywhere that Chiseled Face changed their formulation, but this was an improvement on their already outstanding soaps.  I noted a significant increase in slickness.  The density seemed to be on par with their other offerings which is good.  The lather has good duration as I go through 3 head and face passes (which is probably the equivalent of 6 face-only passes).  The most relevant difference I noticed was the post-shave.  I intentionally delayed using the after shave to test the scent duration.  I discovered I really didn't need a post product.  My scalp felt silky smooth.  I proceeded to use a little Floïd for no other reason than I had my nose set for it.

I really wasn't expecting pine tar to make much of a difference in performance, but something clearly bumped up the slickness and post-shave feel of this soap.  As opposed to it being a novelty, I would like to see pine tar start to become a mainstay trend in ingredients the likes of shea butter and lanolin.

[120inna55]

Stirling Soap Company - Rosemary Mint | BSB-Ti w/HMW Extra Dense
Above The Tie S1 w/Triad Rolling Hex 316 Stainless Handle | Astra Superior Platinum (3)

I ordered "Rosemary Mint" from Stirling because their sample ploy worked.  With my last order, they dropped in a sample of Rosemary Mint bath soap.  My wife and I love Stirling's "Sheep Soap" and I alternate with "Oatmeal Shea Butter".  Since Sheep Soap, I am ruined for all other bath soaps.  My wife prefers an unscented bath soap, and I just love the way the aforementioned make my skin feel.  I gave her the Rosemary Mint sample expecting she may not like it.  I'd forgotten about it.  Last week she asked that I order some Rosemary Mint full-size bars.  That's quite an endorsement. She said she really enjoys the soap because it has the skin feel of the other Stirling Soaps and the mint is refreshing.  I therefore ordered a few bars of the Rosemary Mint bath soap, but I didn't stop there.  I proceeded to order the lotion for her as well.  Then I talked myself into adding the shaving soap to the cart.  I figured I might as well top it off by purchasing the splash, too.  And that, folks, is how the sample ploy works.

The order arrived earlier than I expected, so I wasn't anticipating a package.  As I approached the mail box, I caught a pretty strong scent of rosemary.  We have a rosemary bush about 100 yards away from the mail box, so I knew that couldn't be it.  Then I opened the mail box and it all came together.  Despite the rather intense rosemary aroma emanating from the package itself, off the puck, the mint drowned out everything else.  In fact, it was more of a camphor smell.  As I lathered it, however, that ultimately transformed to a very natural but stout green minty scent. This feels great on the skin.  It's a similar effect to menthol, but instead of an abrupt shock that menthol offers, the mint is more gradual and plateaus for a longer period.  During the shave, I never really picked up on the rosemary.

The quality of the shave is what I've come to expect from Stirling.  Although, I must admit it's been quite some time since I've purchased shaving soap from Stirling.  I thought I remembered my old Stirling soaps containing clay.  Yet clay is not on the ingredients list for Rosemary Mint.  Maybe someone can chime in about a formula change.

I finished with their matching splash.  This is the first time I've used a splash from Stirling.  The ingredients are simple: alcohol, witch hazel, EO, aloe, glycerin, and hydrovance.  Like the soap, it provides a gentle, sustained cooling effect which was quite nice.  The initial smell from the splash was clearly camphor to my nose.  It's definitely not a fragrance I would want to have linger for long.  Fortunately, within about 5 minutes, it did settle down to a fresh mint scent.  It wasn't until about an hour later that I detected gentle aromatic rosemary.

[warhawk]

Yesterday's SOTD:  Thursday, April 7, 2016

Razor:  RazoRock Stealth Slant V1 (aluminum)

Blade:  Voskhod

Soap:  Cold River Soap Works Select:  Puro Fresco

Brush:  Semogue 2012 Special Edition (boar/badger mix)

Dessert:  Ice cube rub, refrigerated WH, refrigerated FINE Fresh Vetiver

It has been awhile since I used the RSSV1 and glad that I did because I had a great shave.  I will definitely use it on my next shave. 


WARHAWK

[warhawk]

Hi Matt:  As far as the Tabac . . . I am not sure about the tomato leaf but I definitely smell a spicy
tobacco scent.  It sounds strange that tobacco can smell good but Tabac has a polarizing scent.  You either love it or hate it.  For me ... I love the stout scent and the performance of this soap is incredible.  I am not as versed in describing the scents as you but all I gotta say is that you will love this soap.

WARHAWK

[120inna55]

Head & face shower shave. 2 days growth.

Technique:  WTG / XTG / ATG/clean-up.
Prep: Shower.     
Soap: Barrister & Mann - Roam (2016)
Brush: Ever-Ready 100T TGN Finest
Razor: Gillette Super Speed 1976 Black Handle
Blade: Astra Superior Platinum(1)
Post: Barrister & Mann - Roam Tonique

Not being a legitimate professional reviewer, I only purchase products I'm confident I will like.  That's not to say there aren't blind buys, but in the wet shaving realm, I've discovered there are a few artisans that are easy on which to take a chance.  Chiseled Face comes to mind.  I love everything I purchase from them.

When it comes to Barrister and Mann, there's been a bit of a learning curve for me.  While the performance of their products is hard to beat, the complexity of their scents dictate that a rush to judgement should be avoided.  A prime example of this was my experience with Leviathan.  I disliked it when I first used it, but by the end of the day, I couldn't wait to use it again.  Additionally, the unfolding of B&M's scents is part of the experience.  From strictly an amateur point of view, the memory or mood connected to a given scent is very important.  As I enjoy single malt scotch, for instance, the facets of the aroma transport me to the Scottish region from which it was distilled.  The scent is not just a static element of the experience, but it's an important facet, and largely determines if I will enjoy it.  All this is before I take my first sip.  I think this concept translates to wet shaving as well.  B&M's scents impart a mood or memory.  That said, what you smell during the shave, while pleasant, may not be what you want to continue to smell a couple hours later.

Roam has an intriguing mystique encompassing it that has evolved into unabashed hype.  While there are lukewarm outliers, surrounding this is a community that can largely be divided into 3 groups:  Those who have used it and love it.  It may be appropriate to say they have a love affair with it.  They love it to an extent that those on the outside might view it as unnatural.  They tremble as the bottom of the jar becomes translucent.  They mourn the final pass.  They petition the maker, offering him worlds of riches and even their first born.  The second group consists of those who have used it and hate, nay, abhor it.  They recoil at the mere mention of its name.  They call for the head of the maker, citing his origins from the abyss.  Then there's the final group.  Those who have only heard the folklore surrounding the mystical MFR, yet never had the opportunity to experience it.  They've heard tales of factions; families destroyed; brother against brother; nation against nation.  Despite all this, this final group still longs for an encounter with this legendary diety that lords over the religion that is ROAM.

Well, I fall in the final group.  I made the purchase simply because I didn't want to miss out, as I suspect, have others.  The intrigue far outweighed any misgivings I had.  Meanwhile, the artisan likely braces himself for an unpleasant return of adoration overcome by hostility.  Honestly, I expected to dislike it, but given the Glissant base, it couldn't be a total loss.

The scent off the dry puck was rather subdued as far as B&M soaps go.  I noted the expected smoke and leather, but caught a very faint whiff, or perhaps just a suggestion of an unlit cigarette. Interesting. Intriguing.  Daring.  As I loaded the brush, the dominant scent was that of cured tobacco with mellow damp earth notes.  As the face lathering commenced, the cured tobacco sustained throughout but with competing smoke and a gentle salty and metallic aroma.  During the three head and face passes, the scent unfolded boldly with intermittent warm sun-cracked leather, and the previously damp earth and metallic notes transformed to an uncanny baked iron ore.  All this barely remained in check by those original cured tobacco and earthy notes.  This is not a novelty soap, but rather a bold yet thoughtful scent wrapped the benchmark soap base that is Glissant.

I purchased both the the matching tonique and the Kyovu. I decided to try the tonique first.  As with B&M's other splashes, the scent profile matches the soap perfectly, but the unfolding is more rapid and the dry-down is more stable.  The only deviation from the soap is an initial fleeting scorched caramel and maple note.  The lingering scents I pick up from this about 2 hours later are old leather, cured tobacco, and earth.

ROAM.  I finally got to experience it.  Even if I hadn't enjoyed it, I would still cherish it as I feel it elevates me to the upper echelon of wet shavers.  I now carry within my spirit that essence that only other ROAMen can recognize.  Fortunately, I do love the scent, and while it's not like any other product I've experienced, I place it on the same level of Chiseled Face's "Midnight Stag" with regard to its presence. Roam is manly, fearless, and bold, but it's not ungoverned.  This is one of those scents that simply must be experienced to be understood.  And even then, there will be those that don't.

Recommendations:  I can't stress this enough.  Roam is unlike any other soap I've experienced, but I would venture to say if you like Roam, you will probably also enjoy "Midnight Stag" from Chiseled Face and "Captains Pipe" from Beaver WoodWright.

[120inna55]

Barrister & Mann - Roam (2016)
BSB-Ti HMW Extra Dense
Above The Tie S1 w/Triad 316 Stainless Rolling Hex
Astra Superior Platinum (1)
Barrister & Mann - Roam Tonique

[warhawk]

Hi Matt:  Love your SOTD pics.  I'll have to put Roam in my shave soap list.  I have a Super Speed razor also.  Hmmm.... I might have to revisit it again.  I have a 1967 and 1974.

WARHAWK

[warhawk]

Last Night SOTD:  Thursday, April 14, 2016

Razor:  RazoRock Stealth Slant V1 (aluminum)

Blade:  Gillette Silver Blue

Soap:  Cold River Soap Works Select:  Puro Fresco

Brush:  RazoRock Plissoft Synthetic

Dessert:  Ice cube rub, refrigerated WH, refrigerated FINE Fresh Vetiver

Recently purchased the RazoRock Plissoft Synthetic from the Italian Barber.  This synthetic brush
has super soft tips.  The brush is supposedly a Plisson brush with the RazoRock handle logo. 
Love this brush and look forward to future uses with it.





WARHAWK

[drew847]

I always wanted to buy a mint condition Fatboy just to have one, but the prices are outrageous. Too lazy to buy a gunked up one and clean it, but even those were too much money. My most reliable one was probably the Merkur 37C.

DE shaving still wasn't for me in the end, but respect to you guys who enjoy it.

[warhawk]

Hi Drew:  Hope that you can still give your safety razor another try.  It took me about a week to get comfortable with my face shaves and about a month to get comfortable with my head shaves.

WARHAWK

[120inna55]

RazoRock - Santa Maria Del Fiore | Firenze
BSB-Ti HMW
Above The Tie S1 | Triad 316 Stainless Rolling Hex
Astra Superior Platinum (2)
Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Colonia | Tabacco Toscano

I love this scent.  I also have SMN Crema da Barba, but there's really no point in paying that much for it.  SMdF performs at least as well and smells the same.  That's no accident as they're both scented with Tabacco Toscano.  This is an excellent warmer weather soap due to the menthol, but it doesn't knock you over.