Sly Bald Guys Forum
Various Non-Bald Discussions => Autos,Toys and Hobbies => Topic started by: schro on March 30, 2008, 09:22:18 PM
-
Having issues with my 1997 Acura CL.
Recently replaced the battery (got an obscene amount of milage out of the original one). There was some battery corrosion on it.
After a week of running great with the new battery, the dashboard ABS warning light (brake system) went on and the tachometer, spedometer and radio all stopped working. I took the new battery out and returned it to AutoZone for a test. They determined it was a defective/bad battery and gave me a new one.
Well, one day into driving around with the new battery, the ABS light went on, the radio went kaput, and the interior lights are now dim. I'm afraid to drive it around right for fear of it dying. Sounds like I've got an alternator problem....Thoughts?
SBG car gurus.....I need some guidance.
Thanks,
Schro
-
Schro,
Sounds to me like an alternator issue. The battery will only charge if the alternator is working. If you keep losing electrical power in the car, that is the only thing it could be.
This gives a good article about what the Alternator does in a car, sounds like your experiencing exactly what one will experience with a faulty alternator
http://www.misterfixit.com/alterntr.htm
-
thanks JDog!!!!!! O0
-
with the first battery i could see it maybe being a bad battery as they are not made like they used too. but after teh 2nd one going bad i would also think about checking the alt. if you take the car to the store they should be able to test it on the car and tell you if it is working.
-
schro... how's the acura doing? was it the alternator? acuras drive 4ever. i'm sure pigpen will agree with that one. O0
WARHAWK O0
-
I'd also guess that it was the alternator since replacing the battery fixed it for a short time.
-
I would definitely say alternator.....
-
It was the alternator.
I'm now trying to find out how (and if) I can get some type of reimbursement for an oil pan replacement. Recently, I took the car in for some warranty emissions repairs. The Acura service dude said the threads in the oil pan where the drain plug sits were in pretty bad shape, so he said the oil pan needed replacement. Well, I went ahead and paid for it ($350) but asked that I be given the old oil pan for inspection so I could speak with Jiffy Lube about getting reimbursement for the damage caused by their tightening the drain plug too much (they were the last people to change my oil, and I've never had an issue with it previously). It was funny that the Acura service rep said "I'm not going to get into a pissing contest".
Well, I asked the mechanic (non-dealership) that replaced the alternator to look at the original oil pan. He said although the threads were damaged, there was no need to replace the pan....just "heli coil" it. I've gotten to learn a little about this through inquiry & phone calls. I've called a couple of Acura Dealership Service Departments (incl. our own PigPen) and have differing opinions on whether or not "heli coiling" is worth it. Bottom line, it would cost less than $100 and wasn't even presented as an option to me.
I may go back to the dealer and "discuss it". But first I'm going to speak with Jiffy Lube about splitting the cost (or maybe getting some type of free stuff). Bottom line, I feel like I spent $$$ that were the result of someone else's mistakes. Also, my expense could have been avoided if all my options were presented. >:(
I'll keep everyone posted.
-
Schro...thats why I change my own oil. People say but ...but...you can go to Jiffy Lube and have it done for $25-$30 and not worry about it. Well let me tell ya....the Jiffy Lube here...I have heard all kinds of horror stories...one....they didnt tighten the nut up tight enough on this one ladies car....on the way to Indy...her engine blew up because of no oil. On another car....they accidently drained the transmission fluid and put in Motor Oil, that tore up a transmission, another they forgot to even put in oil and the plug. On another they didnt even drain teh oil and put in more oil. My wife took our van there once...without even asking me, she thought she was doing me a favor by taking it in. I was pissed when she came home and said it cost her $50 bucks. I said WHAT! Well they asked her if she wanted all fluids checked..she said sure why not. THey charged me $8 bucks for windsheild wash taht was only 1/4 low, brakefluid that didnt even need it..but they charged $5 bucks to check it, $10 dollars to add a little bit of antifreeze. I took the reciept back and demanded the money back adn they werent going to give it to me. There was about 5 people sitting there waitin on their cars to get done...i showed them all my reciept, 3 of them were ladies..the other two guys looked at it and threw a fit. Needless to say I got my money back and a free coupon for my next visit. I told them to shove the free coupon up their ass and handed it to the lady sitting there. Dont know if she got a free oil change or not
Timmayy!
-
never been 2 jiffylube and after reading your sly review...it has been officially comfirmed that i will never go 2 jiffylube.
thanks 4 sharing that one. O0
WARHAWK O0
-
I have always changed my own oil. It take a total of what about 15 minutes. Heck all you do take out the plug, drain oil, sometimes i even put in an engine cleaning fluid. Take off the old filter, put a new one on, fill it back up with oil..." AFTER YOU PUT THE PLUG BACK IN" start'r up and check level and youre good to go. Take oil down to recycling center, dump in bin and taadaaaaaaaaaaahhh your done.
-
OK, I am going to add a couple of quick tricks to test your alternator.
First would be to pull the positive cable from the battery once started..... quick results.
Second is a very old trick, take a metal screwdriver and place it near the back center (small circle in the middle) of your alternator while car is running, if the alternator is charging it will be magnetized (sometimes easier than pulling the cable).
Of course there could be a fluctuation in ohms which would require a machine hooked to test, but this is usually a regulator problem and much cheaper than an alternator. And any auto-zone will hook you to their machine and test for free... just FYI.
Wonder how many of you are going to pop the hood and test the screwdriver trick??
-
Question I have is....what is with the service engine light? Everything on my Blazer seems to be in working order and I cant figure it out for the life of me. Will auto zone or somewhere like that hook it up to a computer for free or will they charge me for it? I have thought about pulling the cables off the battery and resetting everything...I have doen that before on a former truck and the light never came back on....any ideas?
Timmay!
-
Timmayyy, there is a "timer" in the computer of your blazer that sets that light off. If you unplug the positive or negative cable it should reset it, but it might need to have a code put in to reset. I owned a Chevy Lumina one time and mine did the same thing. I had a mechanic friend tell me that the dealership would have to do it, or I could put a 2X4 on the computer and pop it with a hammer once to reset the computer myself. So, I stuck a 2X4 in the fenderwell against the computer and BAM, it worked like a charm. Cannot say if it is the same on a blazer so I am not suggesting it. If the cable reset doesn't work you can call the auto store and ask if the have a connector box with codes for the reset, on some vehicles you can get one for about $25.00.
-
When I lived in Loveland, CO I used to take my Bronco to a Jiffy Lube on Hwy 34 in town. One day, a couple days after an oil change I checked my oil and found the level way down. Looked under the car and had a steady drip coming from the drain plug. I went back to Jiffy Lube and the woman at the counter told me that the kid who did my oil change used AN IMPACT WRENCH to replace the drain plug as it takes too long to do it by hand. They put in a self-tapping plug the next size up which solved the problem. She also gave me some coupons for free oil changes and told me to request specifically that they replace the plug by hand in the future. I wonder if it's their company policy to use the driver in order to speed up the process. I change my own oil ever since.
-
When I lived in Loveland, CO I used to take my Bronco to a Jiffy Lube on Hwy 34 in town. One day, a couple days after an oil change I checked my oil and found the level way down. Looked under the car and had a steady drip coming from the drain plug. I went back to Jiffy Lube and the woman at the counter told me that the kid who did my oil change used AN IMPACT WRENCH to replace the drain plug as it takes too long to do it by hand. They put in a self-tapping plug the next size up which solved the problem. She also gave me some coupons for free oil changes and told me to request specifically that they replace the plug by hand in the future. I wonder if it's their company policy to use the driver in order to speed up the process. I change my own oil ever since.
I worked at Jiffy Lube for a while in high school, we NEVER used an impact. Not saying the kid who did your oil change didn't but that's just plain stupid!
-
I worked at Jiffy Lube for a while in high school, we NEVER used an impact. Not saying the kid who did your oil change didn't but that's just plain stupid!
That's what I thought, too. But that drain plug was so stripped that I could turn it with my fingers. And she didn't seem at all surprised.
-
I worked at Jiffy Lube for a while in high school, we NEVER used an impact. Not saying the kid who did your oil change didn't but that's just plain stupid!
That's what I thought, too. But that drain plug was so stripped that I could turn it with my fingers. And she didn't seem at all surprised.
Very sad
-
Takes too long by hand??? What? that is hogwash...its not like the threads on those things are no longer than an inch.....I would just tell her to give those freebies to someone else...I wouldnt trust Jiffy Lube no matter what.